The Caci Dance Ceremony

Melo Village & The Caci Dance

 

Up high in the hills of Sano Nggoang, Flores lies Melo Village, the home of the Caci Dance.

 

Caci Dance performers

 

 

Melo Village is a 17km south-east from Labuan Bajo, which is the main port of entry from the nearby islands of Bali, Lombok and the Gili Islands. Surrounding the community are steep forests of banana and palm trees, intertwining roads which farmers use to heard their livestock and the odd family of 4 all somehow packed onto a scooter driving to nearby villages.

 

 

Jaw-dropping views of Flores Island and Komodo Islands from the Melo Village

 

 

 

 

Metal drums which are used by the women during the dance

 

 

Caci Dance preparations

After a few minutes, locals started arriving and walking up the path, looking at us with bemused faces. It all unravelled in quick succession; shortly after we walked back up it seemed like the whole village had gathered in the small opening. Women and men, old and young, had formed a big circle and made chairs from anything they found. 

I strolled around taking photos as the men were preparing the costumes and dance tools, while the women had started playing on the metal drums I had earlier helped set up.

 

The residents of Melo have been performing a dance for decades now.

 

The Caci Dance

 

The Caci Dance is a traditional performance of the Manggarai community. It consists of two tribes from nearby villages, putting forward their best fighter to battle one another with whips and shields while dancing to the rhythm of traditional acoustic instruments. 

 

Chanting prior to the Caci performance

 

It all begins with the elder members of the village getting together and chanting (what exactly, who knows), while the fighters circle them, mentally preparing for what’s to come. While this is happening, crowds are building up, cheering for who they’re supporting.

 

Elders chanting, prior to the Caci Dance

 

During the battle, the fighters give each other turns on striking one another.

A hit to the head or the face means losing the game, but a hit on the back is seen as a good sign. This means that the tribe will have a promising harvest next time around.

 

Caci Dance in Melo Village

 

Caci Dance equipment

 

 For the battle, they use a larik (the whip made of rattan) for striking  & a nggiling (the shield which is covered in buffalo hide) for defending.  There’s the songke, which is the Indonesian sarong, the belt and the nggorong bell, which is an attachment on the fights belts which makes a jingling sound, similar to the bell on cattle.

 

Ceremonial dance

Chanting

Caci Dance Symbolism

There is a lot of symbolism behind the equipment of the Caci fighters. The whip symbolizes the male, the father, and the sky. The shield represents the female, the female womb and the earth. The collision of the whip and the shield represent a sexual unity and the giving of life.

 

Caci Dance

 

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Cost

 

It is not mandatory, but guests are asked for a donation of 1,000,000 RP, where you’ll be served a glass of sopi, the local palmed wine. It does sound steep for what it is, but they appreciate anything that you have to give. Remember that there are around 30-40 people taking part in the performance, so make sure you do donate!

 

Melo Village elder pouring the guests a glass of Arak

 


 

 

How to get to Melo Village

 

To find the Melo Village, you will need to drive for 45 minutes from Labuan Bajo town, up to the Jl Trans Flores motorway. The journey is approximately 25 km. It’s not that difficult as it’s following mainly one road, but make sure you search the directions. Melo Village is listed on Google Maps & Maps.Me.

As you reach the village, on the left side of the road there is a grass pathway that leads you up to the opening where the Caci Dance is performed. It isn’t that obvious, and it is not signposted, so be on the lookout. Above, I have a photo of what the opening gate looks like.

 

 

Getting a Tour Guide to watch the Caci Dance

ToursByLocals – ToursByLocals is a fantastic group which pairs you up with someone from the town, who can provide you with an authentic tour with real local knowledge. What is great by using them is that your money is going directly into the pockets of the locals who are welcoming you into their hometown. It’s important to give back to the places we go to, and using a local is doing just that!

 

Klook – If you did wish to book a tour through a more well-known tour agency, Klook provides really affordable tours. I used them a few times when ToursByLocals did not have anyone available

 

 

Where to stay in Labuan Bajo

Luxury – Plantaran Komodo Beach

Middle Class – Le Pirate Island 

Budget Accom- Homestay Sahu– This is where I stayed during my 3 nights in Labuan Bajo. The lady looking after the place was really friendly & welcoming, as well she went out of her way to show us how to get to places like Cunca Rami Waterfall

 

 

Want to know more about what there is in West Nusa Tenggara?

Click the photo below to have a look

Indonesia 11 - Nusa Tenggara, Edition - 11 eBook by Lonely Planet 

 

Melo Village location:

Below you can find the location of Melo village on Google Maps. You will need to keep a lookout of the entrance on your drive up.


 

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